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Re-upholstery vs Recover - An Explanation of These Terms

Psychologists claim that only 7% of communication is verbal and the other 93% is non-verbal; this is usually broken down as 38% vocal (volume, pitch, rhythm, etc) and 55% body movements (mostly facial expressions and body language).

7% Verbal Communications and 93% Non-Verbal Communication

Clearly our non-verbal skills are critically important and are something which we should constantly strive to improve.  However, for now I’m thinking about the verbal communication when discussing proposed work on a piece of furniture.

The terms ‘re-upholstery’ and ‘recover’ are often used interchangeably as though they mean the same thing.  It has been my experience that herein lies the mis-communication.  

When a client tells me that they would like their favourite granny’s armchair re-upholstered I like to question them a little more and listen very carefully to what they say.  Usually a client is only interested in the main fabric and the finished look of a chair.  They usually have little interest and knowledge of the many layers underlying the main fabric.  Little do they know that the finished shape and look of the chair is a result of building up several layers of materials.

To Re-Upholster a chair:

• All the materials have to be removed and the chair completely stripped back to the frame.   

• Once this is done the chair frame is assessed. All weaknesses or breaks and any looseness or movement of the joints are corrected so that the chair frame is sound.

•   Now the frame is ready to be re-upholstered.

•   For traditional upholstery this usually involves 7 layers of materials being carefully built up.

• Modern upholstery uses fewer layers of materials.

• It is during these stages that the shape, size and comfort of the chair is achieved.  If fundamental mistakes are made during the early stages these may seldom be successfully corrected as the re-upholstery process proceeds:  actually some errors may become exponentially magnified as the work progresses.

A chair in the process of being re-upholstered

Of course, for some furniture it isn’t necessary to completely strip off all the old materials.  If the chair is sound, the webbing and springs in good condition it may only be necessary to remove some of the layers which will be rebuilt.

The extent of the re-upholstery should be discussed fully.

To Recover a chair:

• The old main fabric and maybe a couple of the underlying layers must be removed and replaced with new materials and the new main fabric.

•   When I am recovering furniture I spend time discussing and examining the shape and comfort of the chair.  During this time I can assess whether the chair will benefit from adding new stuffing etc.  

As you can see when you instruct an upholsterer to Re-Upholster or Recover a chair you are asking them to do different jobs which will be reflected in the price charged.  Having an  understanding of what the difference is will help you communicate effectively with the upholsterer.

Installing Curtains on an Off Centre Window

I’ve recently made a pair of interlined curtains for a front entrance hall where the window is not centred in the wall.

The left hand side of the window has 21 cm of available wall space, but

on the right hand side there is only 9 cm of wall.

As the curtains were to be hung on a pole this raised a fabrication and installation difficulty because we were not using a pelmet or valance to hide the difference in the wall spaces.

So we had two options.

Option 1:

We could fabricate completely symmetrical curtains and install the pole centred on the window so that the brackets were an equal distance from the centre on both sides.  This would mean that an identical amount of window glazing would be covered by the curtain and the installation would be quick and easy.

Option 2:

We could fabricate asymmetrical curtains and install the pole brackets so that an equal amount of wall space was visible between the finial and the side walls.

Not being one to do almost anything the easy way, I chose Option 2!

To install the pole we first installed the bracket on the right hand side (the side with the smallest available wall space).  We then calculated the amount of visible space and using this measurement worked out exactly where the left hand side bracket needed to be placed.

Without the curtains hanging this arrangement looks a little odd, but I was using the curtains to create the “illusion” that the window was truly centred in the wall.

However, because I was taking more of the curtain to the left hand side wall this meant that the left curtain would cover less glazing than the right curtain which could result in the window looking unbalanced and the illusion failing.

To overcome this I “played” with the spacing between the triple pleats for the right hand curtain.  I increased the size of the spaces on the outer edge side of the curtain and reduced those on the inner side so that the curtain appears fuller and heavier on the outside to balance the look of the left hand curtain.  Additionally, by reducing the inner spaces less of the window glazing is covered which matches the look of the left curtain.

These are photos of the finished heading and full length of the curtains.

You’d never know that the window was not in the centre of the wall.

Curtain Tiebacks or Holdbacks - Traditional and Contemporary Approaches Part 2

A Contemporary Twist

A more contemporary approach is to use a less structured tieback in a contrast fabric to the

main curtains. This gives a more relaxed, less formal feel.

Soft, feminine and informal - a piece of the curtain fabric with a contrast pink ruffle. This tieback is easy to use on a daily basis.

Using Hardware Holdbacks

Using hardware holdbacks can be a lovely and dramatic statement.

The pairing of the holdbacks and the finials in this scheme adds elegance to the overall look. Although the hardware is not large and imposing the window treatment as a whole is very dramatic with the silk lining and the grand sweeping drape of the curtains.

This pole shaped holdback has very clean, modern lines but it is softened with the use of the luxurious silk and the soft drape of the curtain.

Ombres are a lovely choice. They are very easy to use on a daily basis as the curtain is just placed behind the “arms”. There is huge selection of styles available on the market from which to choose and often are found in ranges thus enabling curtain poles, brackets and finials to all match with the ombre.

Clip Holdbacks

Easy to use Clip Holdbacks are quite effective. They don’t need any installation and are usually quite reasonably priced.

They are available in a range of sizes to suit the curtain they are intended to hold back. This one is quite large since the curtain is full and a lot of fabric is being gathered into it.

This is another example of a clip holdback with a bright sunflower as the feature.

Increasingly more modern forms of tiebacks are becoming popular.

The coffee coloured curtain in this photo has been wrapped with a contrast colour of the same fabric and knotted at the bottom. This curtain is intended as a dress curtain not a traversing one sothe tieback is an integral part of the design.

This is another example of a knot being used but here the knot is actually the tieback. Again this is just a dress curtain -

there is a pair of traversing curtains behind.

Tiebacks may be very simple affairs.

This tieback is just a very simple piece of cord - colour matched to the curtain of course.

Here a piece of the curtain fabric has been sewn into a rectangular strip which is tied around the curtain. The striped fabric makes this quite effective.

Similarly, in this example a strip of the curtain fabric has been made into a long band but this time it has been gathered which gives the rather frilly effect. Wrapping the tie around the curtain twice adds extra substance to a light weight curtain.

This is a very simple band of curtain fabric which has been wrapped around the curtain to draw the curtain back from the window to allow the stunning view to take centre stage. Placing thevertical strip horizontally across the curtain gives the curtain a real “waist”.

Nothing could be more simple than this. A lovely satin ribbon tied beautifully around a pair of light curtains. The smiley face says it all!

Another option is to use a range of different materials and textures.

Here very large bright red twisted cord has been paired with a textured blue curtain. The effect is very contemporary and stunning.

For this window treatments leather has been used to make the tiebacks and tab top headings. Much about this window treatment is unusual but the overall scheme works.

Then there is the practical tieback or holdback.

Using the holdback bar on this dormer window prevents the curtain from hanging loosely away from the window. The curtain is not intended to be drawn but just to add some privacy. Note how the sheer helps to draw the eye away from the radiator but will not affect the heat flow into the room.

And finally, there is the “Just Beautiful”

A handmade flower to use as a tieback. In this example the colour of the flower and the curtains tone beautifully but the flower really stands out against the sheer linen curtains. In practical terms though this is probably not one to be handled every day.

Curtain Tiebacks or Holdbacks - Traditional and Contemporary Approaches

Part 1

Why Use Tiebacks?

Using tiebacks on curtains provide several different uses and offer the ability to solve design difficulties which sometimes crop up.

Aesthetics:

Tiebacks may be used to dress the curtains so that they frame a window and the view beyond. They allow the curtains to fall in a soft drape which is sometimes more pleasing than the curtains falling in a straight, vertical line.

Practicality:

Using tiebacks can increase the light from a window when the curtains are open as they hold the curtains away from the glazing.

Tiebacks can help to control the drape of curtains which will help the curtains hang neatly.

Tiebacks can also contain the curtains to keep them away from any activity in the room.

Tieback for Dress Curtains or Daily Use

Tiebacks which are used on dress curtains may be a little more time consuming to install and to dress the curtain properly. However, since the curtains will not be traversing on a daily basis this job need only be done once and then the curtains be left to hang beautifully. On the other hand, if the curtains are intended to traverse you may wish to select something which is quite quick and easy to use.

Available Tiebacks

The soft furnishing market today offers an enormous selection of tieback and holdbacks. This is a discussion of a few, but in reality if you can imagine it then you can use it as a tieback!

You could use tiebacks to create a design theme - for example string together shells or use a pair of large shells in a seaside house, use horseshoes for an equestrian theme or use old garden tools in a conservatory or garden room.

Tiebacks offer designers the ability to make each window treatment unique and interesting.

Traditional Tiebacks

Traditionally tiebacks have been made from the same fabric as the curtain. These look very smart and tailored.

This tieback has a very clean, simple line which is neatly

finished with a piped edge.

Being the same fabric as the curtains they can be quite understated or they can be embellished so that they become a significant design feature.

The multi coloured tassels used here add style and sophistication to the tieback as well as drawing in the colourful fabric of the right hand curtain.

A traditional ambiance is also achieved with the use of cord tiebacks; these range from those that have clean, simple lines to those which are very ornate.

This multi coloured cord tieback beautifully picks up the colours in the curtain and in the tasseled leading edge. The tieback also holds the curtain so that the design feature of the contrast lining is able to be admired

to be continued....

A New Lease of Life For Our Old Favourite Furniture

A New Lease of Life For Our Old Favourite Furniture

In these recessionary, penny-pinching times we have learn that buying cheap, disposable furniture can be a false economy.  Not only do these pieces end up piled in landfill, but recent investigations have discovered that they are often “not fit for purpose in the first place”.

Quality pieces of furniture, however, deserve to be loved and cherished over the years and passed from one generation to the next. What better way to show your devotion to these old favourite pieces than by giving them a new cover: like a new set of clothes!

Treating these old faithfuls to a new outfit not only brings them to life again but by using some of the latest fabric designs you will instantly update your interiors as well.

In short, it is definitely worth re-upholstering any furniture that was made well to begin with.  As an upholsterer I have seen lots of 19th century chairs and sofas that are not even beginning to show any signs of giving up the ghost.  Additionally, there is some modern furniture that is well made and worth owning which can often be bought at a discount due to marked covers or out of date fabric.  But, buy wisely:  there is a lot of furniture on the market that will not serve you as you would like.

If you decide to use a professional upholsterer then these are some points for you to consider:

• Ask for a quote before work begins.  Some upholsterers will quote from emailed photos but, usually they will include a caveat for any unforeseen problems - such as frame weakness or damage which will need to be put right before re-upholstering.  I’m rather wary of professionals who only give estimates as you don’t really know where you may end up.

• In Britain, the laws now requires that any post 1950 furniture be covered with fire retardant materials.  There must be a clearly visible label attesting to this.  If there is no label, or there is any doubt, then the furniture should be stripped and all flammable materials replaced with compliant materials.

• In some instances the furniture only needs to be re-padded rather than being completely stripped.

• Make sure that you know what work will be done on your furniture.  In my business, I invite clients to visit the studio so that they can see the progress of the work or I will email progress photos to them.  

I urge you to re-use the wonderful furniture that already exists.  Constant mass production of poor quality furniture is not helpful to the environment and is really not a wise use of your money.  

Should Traditional Upholsterers use Tacks or Staples when re-upholstering antique furniture?

The question of whether traditional upholsterers should use tacks or staples when re-upholstering antique furniture is frequently and, often, fiercely debated. So what are the two sides of this argument?

Those who are solidly in the Tack Camp argue that all re-upholstery should be authentic and true to the history of the piece of furniture.  They argue that staples are a modern invention and should not be used on old pieces of furniture, as to do so results in an unhappy blend of different eras.  Some even maintain that using staples will ruin the furniture.  To them staples are seen at best as unthinkable, at worst as almost sacrilegious.

Those upholsterers who are in the Staple Camp maintain that one of the foremost reasons for using staples is to protect the wooden frames of the furniture, as staples cause much less damage to the frames.  Without a doubt tacks create a much larger hole in the wood than do staples.  Staples make two little holes.  The pro staplers also maintain that putting in a staple is one hit to the furniture and the staple is home, where a tack require several hammer hits to knock it home.  For fragile pieces of furniture the less hitting the better.  It is also claimed that because the staple gun is placed in position before the staple is fired, there is no damage to the show wood. 

I think that both sides of this argument have merit and that the ideal situation is a happy blending of both tacks and staples.  In my work I do use both; though not always on the same piece of furniture.  

Staples are in fact not all that modern.  The first patent for a stapler was granted on August 7, 1866 for a device called the Novelty Paper Fastner.  This device allowed a single staple to be loaded and it was used mainly to bind papers or books, but was also used on carpet, furniture and boxes.  However, the earliest record of staples is from France in the 18th century.  They were developed for the use of King Louis XIV of France and each staple bore his name!

Staples were not originally created specifically for use in upholstery, but the upholstery trade has a tradition of ‘borrowing’ materials from other trades.  For example Calico, which is a bleached cloth used frequently in upholstery.  Originally this was a fabric brought to the UK from Calicut, India by the East India Trading Company for use in the clothing trade.  Very quickly upholsterers saw the benefit of this cloth to their trade and so Calico became a fundamental part of upholstery.

In practical terms often a long-nosed staple gun will successfully place a staple in a very tight area where a tack and hammer just won’t work.  Recently I was asked to re-upholster a Victorian chair whose tacking rail was in such poor condition that the only answer was to use staples or else have the tacking rail rebuilt.

One drawback of staples is that they tend to be a nuisance to remove when stripping off a piece of furniture. They often snap leaving a small piece of staple left in the furniture.  This though can be hammered flat which will cause no ill effect.  Usually the staples can be removed by hand with a staple remover and a pair of pliers.  This is beneficial to the frame since there is no banging as there is when using a ripping chisel and mallet to remove old tacks.  If you are careful about the placement of the staples then is possible to remove them without causing  any damage to the show wood.

Tacks still have a very worthwhile place in the upholstery trade.  I think that it is right to try to use tacks on very old and / significant pieces of furniture.

From a commercial point of view though staples greatly speed up an upholsterer’s job and at the end of the day we are running a business.  If it came down to making a choice, I would rather use staples than reduce the quality of my stuffing or webbing.

One final point to consider is that when re-upholstering any piece of furniture we should not try to hide the fact that the work has been done in the 21st century. After all this is another phase of the furniture’s life and in time it will also become part of its history.